Buenos Aires

Dear friends,  

I am writing this post whilst on an 18-hour overnight bus journey through the Argentinean countryside as we head North towards our next destination. Here on the border between Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay lie the Foz de Iguazu, one of the world’s largest waterfalls. But for now, let me tell you about where our trip started, in Buenos Aires… 

Our last few weeks in London were spent moving out of our flat and saying goodbye to our families, friends and work colleagues. After so much planning, anticipation and the long flight, it was a relief to finally land in Buenos Aires. The city is strikingly green, every street is lined with lush trees. Second only to the number of trees is the number of lively cafes in the city, each bustling with locals from sunrise to sunset.  

Argentina is known for tango, steak and red wine, and Buenos Aires delivered on all counts. Although there are many Parrillas (steakhouses) in the city, there was only one choice for us – the renowned Don Julio. Infamous amongst tourists and locals alike. The walls are filled with empty wine bottles covered in scrawled messages from diners around the world. The centre-piece of the restaurant is the traditional open flame grill where huge steaks sizzle away. All of the beef at Don Julio is grass-fed Aberdeen Angus and Hereford cattle, raised in the countryside outside Buenos Aires. It is stored in a climate-controlled refrigerator for at least 21 days whilst it reaches its optimum maturity. Don Julio has an extensive menu – they pretty much serve every part of the cow. Those struggling to choose a cut of meat, are taken over to the grill and shown the selection. Here I received the biggest steak I’ve ever seen! It went deliciously with chimichurri and some great Malbec! 

Certain we had now had the best steak and red wine; we went in search of a tango show. Unsure we would ever need to eat again, we opted out of a dinner show. At the cultural centre we saw ‘The passion of Tango’. Alongside the three couples dancing the Argentinean tango was an incredible band and singer. The couples twirled and flicked their legs as they sped around the stage, even completing some terrifying lifts. Having boasted prior to the show that he would be able to do tango no problem, Simon quickly retracted this statement. Despite keeping any eye out for classes or milonga (a social dance) we did not get an opportunity to put this to the test! 

Each neighbourhood in Buenos Aires is different from the next, from the colourful streets of La Boca, to San Telmo’s tango theatres and antiques markets, to the street art of Palermo. At every corner there are ornate colonial buildings, or parks filled with professional dog walkers and at the centre of it all is the obelisk, the prominent landmark which is visible from most main streets. 

La Boca is one of the poorer areas or barrios of the city located by old port, however it has recently become a tourist attraction. Like many others we too were drawn to the brightly coloured buildings, ramshackle houses and shipping containers. The main street is Caminita, here local artists display their work and there are bars, restaurants and yet more cafes! We visited on a particularly rainy day and found shelter in the Club Athletico Boca Juniors football stadium, much to Simon’s delight (thanks for the suggestion Dave…). 

In Palermo we discovered trendy restaurants and bars, and on the outskirts enjoyed a tasting menu and wine pairing at I Latina. The menu is inspired by food from throughout Latin America and gave us a taste of what is to come as we continue our journey. We enjoyed ceviche, a speciality in Peru, mole a Mexican speciality – a chocolate and chilli-based sauce and beef cheek cooked in Colombian coffee. The outstanding food was accompanied by carefully selected wines from various different Argentinean wine regions including Mendoza, Valle de Cafayte and Salta. Any previous doubt about visiting these regions disappeared and we vowed to visit every vineyard we could! 

Another famous delicacy in Argentina is Dulce de Leche, a rich caramel sauce usually eaten with medialunas (sweet croissant-shaped pastries), churros or pancakes. Already aware of how delicious it was, I wanted it on everything! With a few more weeks travelling around Argentina, I was sure Simon would abandon his opinion that Nutella was superior. 

The following day we ventured to the city’s famous Recoleta Cemetery to explore the labyrinth of eerie tombs and statues. There are over 6,400 statues, sarcophagi, coffins and crypts. In this cemetery rest Argentina’s most celebrated sons and daughters. Former Argentine presidents Sarmiento’s and Raúl Alfonsín’s crypts are amongst the most visited. However, the most popular is the Duarte crypt, and many visitors bring flowers as this is where Eva Perón lies. She was the wife of Argentine president Juan Perón, and First Lady of Argentina from 1946 until her death in 1952. She is loved throughout the country for her contribution to the feminist movement and support to the sick and poor.  

Locals not in the cafes throughout the city, are in parks and on street corners sharing Mate (pronounced “mah-tay”), a traditional South American tea most popular in Argentina and Uruguay. It is made from yerba mate – green finely chopped leaves, and tastes similar to green tea but is highly caffeinated. It is usually shared between friends and groups of people, served in a gourd made of a calabaza (squash rind often with metal detailing). The yerba mate is packed around the metal bombilla (straw) which also functions as a filter. A thermos of hot water is always nearby to refill the gourd, with a one serving of packed yerba mate giving about 10 drinks. Although we have not yet tried traditional mate, we enjoyed a version of this as an aperitif during our meal at I Latina. Here yerba mate was served in the traditional gourd but with chilled lemon juice & it was delicious! A few more weeks in Argentina and we might truly invest in the culture and purchase our own gourd, so we can enjoy mate and use it as an ice-breaker in the hostels!   

Plaza de Mayo is the oldest square in Buenos Aires, named after the Argentine revolution, which began on May 25, 1810. The square is surrounded by several important buildings including the Cabildo, the colonial town hall and the Metropolitan Cathedral where Pope Francis conducted mass for 20 years. At one end of the square lies the striking Casa Rosada, the pink governmental palace. As well as being the site of the May revolution, the square was also the location for the country’s first political rally in 1890. Ever since it has been the focal point for public gatherings and protests, and in the late 1940s crowds gathered to hear Eva Perón speak from the balcony of Casa Rosada. 

A long day exploring the city was thirsty work, so we headed to Florería Atlántico one of the city’s famous speakeasys. Disguised as a florist, a refrigerator door leads down into a large basement with a long bar running the length of the room. We enjoyed a few of their speciality cocktails, listening to the DJ and people watching. 

Throughout the city are several rainforest-like parks. Including the Jardin Botanico Carlos Thays which contains different species of plants and trees from across the world. Here in this peaceful corner of the Buenos Aires, the squawking of birds drowns out the hum of the busy surrounding city. On the other side of the city beyond the skyscrapers of Puerto Madero lies the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve which is the biggest and most biodiverse green space in the city. Winding paths with lead you past lagoons to the Rio de la Plata river, here you can observe different species of birds, mammals, reptiles and amphibians. Walk or hire bikes to explore this oasis! 

Our time in Buenos Aires had come to an end and we boarded the bus equipped with alfajores – round cookies filled with dulce de leche of course! 

See you in Puerto Iguazu! 

Lots of love,  

Xaverie  

xxx