Dear friends,
Our home for the past five nights has been a hostel in Pucón. Located on the eastern shore of Lake Villarrica, and 17km from one of the most active volcanoes in Chile, Volcán Villarrica, it is a popular destination for backpackers, and Chilean’s enjoying their summer holidays. It boasts a huge variety of different excursions and adventure sports, with something for everyone! We began our stay recuperating from our overnight journey, stretching out on the black volcanic sandy beach, and taking refreshing dips in the mineral rich waters of the lake.
Most days you can see toxic smoke rising from Villarrica’s crater, and some days even the orange glow of lava! You are reminded of its presence as you walk about town, catching glimpses of it above the timber buildings, passing the evacuation route signs and the occasional warning sounds of the sirens that fill the streets (locals ignored these – so they must have been a false alarm!)
Volcán Villarrica last erupted in March 2015, and ever since its activity has been closely monitored by the Deep Earth Carbon Degassing Project, which is collecting data on the carbon dioxide and sulphur dioxide emission rates from subaerial volcanoes. It is also known as Rucapillán, a Mapuche word meaning “devil’s house.”
At 2,840 metres high it is used predominantly as a ski resort during winter. Weather permitting however, some people are mad enough to make the hike up to look into its crater… that’s right, Simon convinced me to do it! We were advised that many people can wait a few days to a week for the right weather conditions for the safe journey up to its glacier capped summit. It seemed too good to be true when the tour agency told us the next day looked good. Without too much time to dwell on what I’d just signed up for we raced around the town getting last minute supplies for the trip, before getting an early night. We had an early start and a long day ahead of us.
At 5:30am we clambered out of our beds, silently changing into our walking trousers and fleeces, whilst the rest of the hostel slept – well apart from one guy baking his own bread in the kitchen! After making our way to the tour agency’s office, we were fitted with boots, trousers and a wind jacket and given a rucksack each containing all the equipment we would need. After a bumpy journey into and through the Villarrica National Park we finally arrived just as the sun was rising, with Pucón already looking small in the distance. After quick introductions to the six other climbers and our three guides, we made our way to the chair lift, which would save us at least an hour of climbing, leaving us to start at 1,867m.
Our 5-hour climb started on a steep rocky path, but we soon reached the ice line and it was time to learn how to use our crampons and ice picks. We trudged single file, zig-zagging up the steep slope, all of the tours taking the same route over the glacier and up to the ‘false summit.’ It was then time to take off our crampons, and leave our backpacks as we made our way up the rocky terrain to the crater. As we climbed higher, the toxic smell of sulphur fumes given off by the volcano began to fill our lungs, and we stopped to put on our gas masks for the final 20 metres. We reached the top, and tentatively peered down into the crater, seeing the fumes rising that were stinging our eyes and catching the occasional glimpse of the lava lake. Rewarded after the tough climb with panoramic views out at the mountains, lakes and other volcanoes in the distance.
After clambering back down to our backpacks we were each given a small round plastic toboggan and we sledged back down the volcano, using our ice picks to slow us down (or in Simon’s case to propel himself faster and faster!).
The following day, the heaven’s opened and clouds blocked all view of Volcán Villarrica, realising we were going to get soaked anyway we decided to go white water rafting nearby on the Trancura River. Here in an inflatable raft full of Chileans we added some invaluable Spanish commands to our vocabulary, with our instructor shouting “adelante” – forwards, “el alto” – stop, and “bajar” – get down! We completed the upper section of the river, plummeting down grade III, IV and V rapids, some of which were small waterfalls! It was great fun and we cooked some veggie chilli back at the hostel to warm ourselves up.
Fortunately, the following day the weather improved once more and with our legs now rested after our volcano expedition, we travelled by local bus to Huerquehue National Park in the foothills of the Andes. Here we opted for the more difficult trail up Cerro San Sebastián, it was a steep climb but delivered yet more incredible views of the surrounding volcanoes, mountains and shimmering lakes. After a long days hiking, with a few hours to wait until the return bus to town we headed to la playa on the shores of Carburgua Lake, where I enjoyed a cooling swim.
Our final day in Pucón was spent enjoying some of the best empanadas we’ve had so far and doing some more planning for our upcoming few weeks. On our last evening whilst enjoying a quiet drink at the hostel bar, Simon began playing blackjack with some other backpackers and the Chilean hostel owner and his friends. Before then entering a poker tournament that would go on until 6am, with lots of wine, pisco mixed with tonic water and of course barbequed meat! With an extremely tired Simon we boarded our early morning bus which would take us south through the lake district to Puerto Varas, another adventurous lakeside town.
What will our next adventure be…?
Lots of love,
Xav
xxx